Thimble Mountain (4062ft)
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Thimble Mountain on hike out |
Thimble Mountain also known as Thimble Butte to the locals of Oatman. Thimble is a chossy desert tower. This peak was exciting to me because it rises dramatically 500ft from all directions and 1400ft from the road aspect. With no easy way up and no available beta online, this quickly became high on my list. I decided on my first attempt to go out solo and find a route. I made an attempt on the East aspect but after 25ft of climbing it became too loose for comfort to be unroped.
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The Cholla Garden. |
I asked around trying to find a partner for this mountain. People quickly answered no after hearing about the looseness in nature. I don't really blame them, why climb a peak with horrendous rock fortified with Chollas and angry burros. This is simply a question I can't even answer myself. Yet I find myself interested in another chossy shit show. Adam Walker was the only person that was interested in the peak. He has created a list of Desert Towers that I have been checking off.
On the morning of 25 February 2025, we headed out. The approach is rather short, under 2 miles and 1200ft of hiking. The going is slow because it is completely cholla-infested. The terrain surrounding the cactus is also loose, so it is easy to lose footing and become one with the plant. It was already hot, and I became slightly dizzy on the approach. Luckily, I learned my lesson and brought ample water.
It took us an hour and 20 minutes to reach the base. We sat in the shade and cooled down while we transferred to climbing. After climbing the first part of the pitch I was convinced the climbing would become easier, but I realized once on the route I was deceived. The rock quality for the first 10m of the climb was good but quickly deteriorated. I reached the base of the first overhung series of moves, delicately tapping each hold to ensure it was solid. I pulled the moves and became stuck in the corner with intentions to move up to the right. I reached up and gently tap the giant jugs I was planning on climbing up.... fuck these things are loose and easily weigh 50-plus pounds. These are not the play.
Adam said it looks like if you traverse left, it eases off in angle for a bit. Which was true but first I had to traverse left on another overhanging ledge to get there. I ended up finding decent protection to make the traverse confidence-inspiring. I was now halfway up the pitch and right below the belt of rotten volcanic rock that was 5ft high. This rock was so bad I had to pick through it throwing rocks away from Adam belaying me. It felt like I was never going to get through the rotten rock but one pebble at a time I cleared enough good rock to put my weight on. I was right below the crux of the route, 10ft past my last piece of pro. My only footholds are on the volcanic belt of choss and an overhanging feature to pull me into a short chimney. I had some serious Elvis leg which rarely happens to me, I slowed my breathing and worked through this mental block, and I became in charge of my leg's movement again.
On my first attempt to get over the lip into the chimney my right foothold blew out, luckily, I had two good hand holds and was able to swing my right foot back to the now solid foothold. I pushed up and stemmed up into the chimney. I was able to plug in a solid piece of gear and the climbing eased off tremendously which was a relief. However, at this point, I remained vigilant of the death blocks because these became more common. I had a cam that I had slung to me to reach above my head to tap and listen to what was solid and what was hollow. Some of the blocks easily weighed up to 200 lbs. I did not want to pull these loose. A few feet from the top of the pitch I placed one more piece of gear for insurance and after 28m I was on easy terrain. I spotted an old bolt and a nut hanging out of the wall. I replaced the nut, placed 2 cams, and created a solid 4-piece anchor. I felt the climbing was anywhere between 5.8+ to 5.9.To avoid pulling rocks down, Adam was going to jug up the fixed rope but after deeming it unsafe to get over the lip and the rock potential was too much, he decided that the risk was not worth it for him. I completely respect a partner being honest with what they want to do outside is vital. After he called it, I waited till he was out of any rock fall potential, and I worked the final bit to the summit.
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final class 4 to summit |
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